Vintage Cannondale – Head Shok Information. HEADSHOK–HISTORY & FEATURES. The Headshok suspension fork was first introduced in 1992. It features 4 strips of needle bearings. Manual Lock Out Indexed Rebound Adjustment Integrated “Air-On-Bottom” Air Spring. Super Fatty Ultra DL Alloy Inner Tube 80mm of Travel DL80 Cartridge.

(under construction, always.) After about three years I decided to try and update this website some. The story is that I no longer own a cannondale and probably never will again, at least not a headshok equiped one. After I took apart my headshok it laid around for a while only recently putting it back together (yes about 2 years later). I had replaced it with an ordinary fork using one of the CLC Adapters, which IMHO worked much better.

However the CLC Concept page is no longer there. I do have a phone number for them and I will try an contact them to see if they are still in business I believe this website is a great asset to many people, hence the reason it is still up.

I myself now maintain/own a VERY large mountain bike website so all my time is devoted to it (). I still have an open invitation for anyone that would like to take this page over, but keep it here at this URL. Headshok Accessories! Yes they do exist, companies other than Cannondale that make aftermarket accessories for Headshoks.

Sometimes the parts are hard to find. I've been searching the net to find these parts. Visit my page to get all the information.

Ever wondered how to take apart and repair your Headshok yourself, can't never seem to find anyone that can tell you anything, nor find anything on the web about it? Once I found out through numerous sources how these shocks work I decided to share the wealth!

Here I will explain how to remove, install, tear down, repair, and maintain a Cannondale Headshok. Pictures will document everything along with written explanations. We have all heard of the tools that Cannondale makes to work on HeadShok's that are only available through your local bike shop. I have found pictures of these tools for you to look at. I myself have taken the dimensions from the Shoks and these pictures to make what tools I need to work on the shock. NOTE: You need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view all the manuals I have on this page.

If you notice some information on here that is incorrect or have any tips you think should be added, please send them my way! Full archive of all the manuals Cannondale has on their site related are contained on this site as well.

To take a look at them.

I'm trying to revive an Super Fatty Ultra DL fork which is in immaculate condition but the damping and lockout are not working. I've managed to take it apart pretty far but I need a little help with getting all the seals changed.

I've already found a few bad seals and there was literally no damping oil left in the cartridge. Now I'm trying to get the top cap (to change it's seals) of the damper shaft but after a few days of searching I'm still unsure of how to do it. I found someone asking the same question but no answer. I have the correct seal kit, the cannondale shaft clamps and the bullet tool but I want to be sure of what I'm doing so I don't mess it up. Here's where I'm at now. Clone trooper armor pepakura files master. I read somewhere that you have to separate the upper and lower parts of the shaft to get the white cap off.

I can secure one or the other half with the shaft clamps but I can't see any way of getting a grip on the other? There are no flat sections visible (as there apparently is on some other damper version). Common advice is not to bother with the seal in the upper cap - they are survivors, unlike the others! To access the upper seal you need to remove the lock out dial nut and steerer tube head. They are an tight interference fit I believe and there's a trick for removing them.

They require some kind of press for re-assembly if you do manage to separate them.which you probably don't have as it's beyond most mechanic's inventory. I revived a Super Fatty Ultra in the same way as you, and didn't do the upper seal.

It's been fine, way beyond its service interval now. Super smooth and plush, too.

Just wondering. In the full knowledge that these dampers are no longer commonly available and the chance to come by a replacement from a internet bike shop or on eBay is very slim, the taking apart becomes a very high risk operation.Well, kinda. Complete, working forks come up on eBay from time to time for around 100 bucks. So you can use them as direct replacements or as a donor if you are bothered about matching frame / fork paint. It is possible to buy a modern 80mm DL damper - the trouble is they changed the threading. But if you have an older fork with a busted damper you could swap the damper cartridge body out to retain the correct threading.